We got the engine fired up nicely, so we strapped it on the dyno to run it in and also to give it a base tune.
Currently the rev limit is set to 8,000 RPM at the moment.
With just pump gas, no water/methanol injection, no nitrous we made 404 wheel horsepower with 1.6 bar of boost on a very conservative tune.
So if we do a reverse calculation of a 15% power loss on transmission, the engine should be making around 475 horsepower at the crank.
The engine needs to run in a little more before we tune it again with a more aggressive map and with water/methanol injection.
I made a short video clip for your viewing pleasure, pardon the bad video quality as it was shot using a crappy camera.
Car getting ready on the dyno
GT Auto was kind enough to give the car a wash before tuning it
Master tuner Toby Lee from GT Auto
Stage 1 Turbo vs Stage 2 Turbo
By comparing chart with the Stage 1 Turbo kit, we could see that there isn't any difference in the power delivery at the low end so we don't really experience any turbo lag at all.
Now that there isn't any issue with lag, we might consider removing the nitrous kit.
With the kind of boost level that we'll be running with the new Owen Developments turbo, it sounds like a good idea that we upgrade the wastegate to match it as well.
Meet Comp-Gate 40, a brand new 40mm external wastegate from Turbosmart featuring a locking ring design which allows changes of spring a breeze. Not to mention the highest flowing wastegate it its class too.
The other thing I like about this wastegate is its V-band clamp design which makes it super easy to remove, perfect when we need to swap it out to change its springs later.
Packaging design
Contents of the package
To ensure the authenticity of your product, make sure you get it from reliable supplier/seller
V-band clamps
New compact design
The actuator housing is now 25% smaller than previous models thanks to its new design
The car is now back for the final work to be done, which is fueling system & ECU wiring and then we can fire up the engine.
We've already got the fuel rail covered, and now that we're running the SARD 800cc injectors the stock fueling system will need to be converted to a return setup.
Things like the fuel pump and regulator will definitely need to be upgraded as well. We'll cover the fuel pump setup in a later post and focus on the fuel pressure regulator first.
Pictures are pretty self explanatory, basically it is a rising rate design made from billet aluminum so that it could withstand the harsh condition of the engine bay.
Just a note, fake items are everywhere and it is getting harder to differentiate them. Just make sure you get your stuff from a reliable seller/supplier or else you'll be running the risk of blowing your engine.